The ABCs of Belgium

Civilization is "the outcome of the working of the innate qualities of man." -- Ludwig von Mises

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Bruges, Belgium

When my husband first suggested we vacation in Belgium, I was surprised. “What in Belgium?” I asked, “Other than beers and chocolates?” He pointed out that Belgium has some of the most renowned art pieces. Although I was still doubtful, I decided to take his word for it. After visiting Belgium recently, I had to admit that my husband was right that this tiny European country has so much to offer, more than beers and chocolates (although those two aren’t too bad either). 

We traveled to three Belgian cities: Brussels (the capital), Bruges, and Ghent. Bruges is our favorite of the three. 

Between the 12th and 15th centuries, Bruges was one of Europe’s most crucial political power centers. The Dukes of Burgundy, known to have “a profound interest in magnificent-splendor and show-as cultural symbols of power (Matthias Depoorter),” set their courts in the city. 

Due to its proximity to the sea, Bruges was an international commercial center, mainly focusing on trading wools. Merchants from the city served as middlemen between northern and southern Europe. Amsterdam, Holland, likes to claim that it gave birth to capitalism by establishing the first modern stock exchange in the world in 1602, but Bruges’ Oude Beursplein (Old Stock Exchange) was older than the one in Amsterdam. Bruges’ entrepreneurs were known for being innovative and were adept at utilizing as bills of exchange and letters of credit, which helped facilitate trade. Merchants also learned to band together to share the risks and profits and their knowledge of markets. 

After becoming wealthy, merchants sought cultural sophistication, taking cues from the dukes of Burgundy. They financed the construction of marvelous churches and became Flemish art and artists patrons. Thanks to capitalism and the patronage of the merchant class, Bruges became one of Europe’s most cosmopolitan cities and an undeniable cultural center.

Unfortunately, gradual silting had caused Bruges to lose direct access to the sea. The city’s industrious residents tried to re-establish access through building canals. Eventually, nature won the battle. International trading shifted to other more accessible cities as Bruges’ harbor silted up. The city’s economy collapsed, and the dukes left. 

Today, Bruges’ economy enjoys a renaissance due to tourism. Tourists worldwide are attracted by the ABCs the city offers: A for art collections and some of the best-preserved medieval architectures; B for picturesque bridges and various beers; and C for romantic canals, majestic churches, and delicious chocolates.

Art and Architecture

Flemish art refers to “works produced from the 15th to the 17th centuries in the region that approximately coincides with modern-day Belgium. In the 15th century paintings began to be produced there which captivated art lovers across Europe due to the realism of the details and the luster of the surfaces, achieved through the new use of oil paint.”

Bruges was home to some of the best-known Flemish artists, including Hans Memling, Jan van Eyck, and Lucas Cranach. These artists were adept at painting and were renowned chemists of the age. They invented and perfected the oil painting materials, which allowed their paintings to continue to display brilliant colors even today. 

The best place to see Hans Memling’s masterpieces is St. John’s Hospital, one of Europe’s oldest surviving hospital buildings. Here, you will find St. Ursula Shrine and the altarpiece, The Mystical Marriage of St. Catherine (see photo below). Memling’s radiant paintings must have brought peace and comfort to the sick and dying lying in this gloomy hospital at the time.